Montenegro
Me, Blaž, Jan and Luka went kayaking
over Balkan down to Turkey. After postponing our start and visiting some
mechanic shops we were finally packed. Fully loaded with kayaking equipment,
camping gear and motor bike we started driving from Slovenia down south with
our Toyota Land cruiser vehicle. Our first stop was Morača river in Monte
Negro. There we met with a bunch of other friends: Matjaž, Jakob, Andrej, Urban,
Jan, Tina, Nika, Urša and the whole Balkan river tour crew.
For the first time we put our kayaks
on the water in upper section of the river. With a medium low flow the run was quite
bony with a few good rapids. We got out at Morača monastery. It was a good warm
up run!
Next day we decided to kayak the classic
section; a big canyon of a Morača river from the monastery down. All the way
was a WW3 class rapids with two rapids WW 4. We were astonished by the beauty
of the deep canyon with its vertical walls and emerald water. We finished our trip
just before the night fell on us at one of the possible exists after the main
section of the canyon. We treated ourselves with beers at the campfire before
we called it a night and fell asleep on the riverbench.
Some of our team also descent
Mrtvica river which is a tributary of Morača river. It is a short section where you need to carry up your kayak because there is no road. Later you have about
half of hour of joy kayaking down.
Albania
Tamare
In the morning we were ready to
drive to our next destination, the promising Albania. After couple of hours we
arrived to the land of eagles and Mercedes Benz cars :)
Just crossing the border showed us
big cultural differences compared to the neighboring ex Yugoslavian countries.
We drove towards valley of Cijevna
(Monte Negro)- Cem (Albanian) river. Scenic drive on the new road over the pass
brought us to the new valley for the next few days. As soon as we arrived we
went kayaking a section on the Tamare river. We started just above Tamare
village at point there was enough water in the river to start kayaking. Bony
start brought us to the first serious rapid just under the bridge in the middle
of the Tamare village. Later on we did only one more out of boat scouting and
finished kayaking just before the border with Monte Negro in Cem river already.
Cem
Next day we drove further up into
the valley towards the head waters of Cem river. We reached Vukel and Nikc
villages under the Maja peaks driving on a scenic macadam road.
A terrain vehicle is recommended if
you are loaded with equipment. We took our time and discovered the upper part
of the valley. It is a remote area with welcoming locals and pristine but wild
nature.
Late afternoon we started paddling the
upper section of Cem river. Short and rewarding descent included some technical
rapids, waterfall and short box canyon what we decided not to run it due to a tricky
entrance rapid with medium to low water level.
The following day we did the lower part
after starting down some km from the tricky canyon. Already from the site while
we were driving up in the valley we recognized that there is going to be a good
day of kayaking. Step cataract with short pools in between continuously
descending in between high vertical walls. There was possible to do a lot of
read and run kayaking with some scouting and portages. We had a medium water
level but honestly you don’t want
to have it much higher. It took us a couple
of hours
to finish this section down in the valley at the tributary with Tamare
river.
Shale
Full of enthusiasm we were ready for
a two-day adventure on Shale river. In a rented van with a driver and six of us
we proceeded from Skoder through the valley of Kir river towards rural village Teth
over the mountains. After 6 hours of adventure drive we found ourselves in Teth
but actually just on the other side of Cem valley. At our put in we got in
touch with locals and later on sleeping and eating in their home. In the
morning loaded with sleeping bags, food, dishes etc. in our kayaks we started our
descent. The river can be divided into two sections.
First part from Teth down to bridge
of main road coming into valley is a boulder garden some cataracts with bigger
boulders.
Second part is easier and longer with
finish in the Komani lake. River goes through remote area and is more or less
in the canyon. It took us about 5 hours for both sections. We came to Komani
lake and spotted some touristic facilities right on the river. Luckily there
were workers who organized us a boat which took all of us with kayaks over the
lake to the port. It is recommended to organize a shuttle before if you would
like to avoid a probably whole day of flat water kayaking over the lake.
Here is the link where you can contact Mario a local legend
who can help you to organize the shuttles on the lake http://www.komanilake.com/
Valbona
We spent the night in the port close to the dam. In
the morning we boarded the ferry which should take us to Fierza already close
to Valbone valley. This time luck was not on our side. Just in the middle of
crossing the lake the ferry broke down… The captain gave us the steering wheel
and control over the ferry while he was trying to cool down the engine we were
driving the ferry. Time to time he came up from the engine room to the captain
bridge to show us the line in the dammed and flooded valley. We didn’t make it
to the other side but we returned back to the start point.
Half of the day spent on ferry adventure with
experience of driving ferry and a lot of laughter
made us richer
for one of our childhood dreams
became reality :)
Back in the port and
already tired we started driving all around with the car for a seven hours to Valbonë Valley
National Park. We started kayaking from the point there was
enough water in the river. Most of the rapids were scout able from the kayak.
River starts with nice boofs and technical rapids. After passing the wooden
mosque on the right side the river drops into a short and low canyon for few hundred meters besides the road. This part
of the river was the most technical. Than the river goes continuously down as
before and reach the approximately half of km long box canyon. It took us a long
time to scout the it from the top to be sure it’s clean. After the entrance
rapid which
was a little bit tricky there was just pure joy until the exit. And
there was our take out. For sure that was the best kayaking on the trip yet and
we all agreed that Valbone river is a queen of Balkan rivers!
Filip Tomažič, Alpin Action Team